Antica Trattoria Papei Siena: Honest Review (2026)

# Antica Trattoria Papei Siena: Honest Review

Piazza del Mercato 6, just behind Piazza del Campo. Antica Trattoria Papei is one of the few historic trattorias in central Siena that locals still eat at — not just tourists. Here's the honest take after multiple dinners over the last two years.

The short version

• Go for: real Tuscan cucina (pici, wild boar pappardelle, ribollita, tripe, grilled meats) at trattoria prices, with outdoor tables under the Torre del Mangia.
• Skip if: you want refined modern cuisine, vegan menus, or fast service in August at 8pm. This is old-school Tuscan, period.
• Price: €30–45 per person with wine. Pici €10–13, secondi €15–22.

What to order

Pici al ragù di cinghiale (wild boar pappardelle) The signature dish. Hand-rolled pici (Siena's pasta) with slow-cooked wild boar ragù. If you only try one thing, this is it.

Pici cacio e pepe Simple, perfectly executed. €11. A good test of any Tuscan kitchen.

Ribollita Tuscany's iconic bread-and-bean soup. Papei's version is dense, served properly thick — the way nonna would make it.

Bistecca / tagliata For meat eaters: the grilled beef is reliable, sourced from Chianina-area producers. Not the cheapest in town, but honest.

Antipasto toscano Salumi, crostini neri, bruschetta. Good for two to share.

What to skip

• Fish dishes — this is meat-and-pasta country. Order accordingly.
• Desserts — fine, not memorable. Save room for gelato at Gelateria Brivido instead.

Practical info

• Address: Piazza del Mercato 6, Siena
• Phone: +39 0577 280894
• Hours: typically 12:00–14:30, 19:00–22:30 (closed Mondays — check before going)
• Reservation: strongly recommended for dinner, essential for outdoor tables. Book 2–3 days ahead in high season.
• English menu: yes
• Cards accepted: yes

Locals' tip

Ask for an outdoor table when you book — the position under the Torre del Mangia, looking onto Piazza del Mercato, is one of the most atmospheric dining spots in central Siena. Indoor seating is fine but it's the terrace that makes the meal.

Related guides

• Where to eat in Siena: local guide
• Best restaurants near Piazza del Campo (honest)
• Pici pasta: where to eat it right

Final word

If a restaurant in central Siena has been open for decades and is still half-full of locals on a Tuesday, that's the signal. Papei passes that test. Write us at redazione@visitsienaguide.it if you want a specific dish recommendation.